Every German insists it was Kadir Nurman in Berlin, yaar, but my grandfather's notebooks say it was Mahmut Aygun at Hasir in Kreuzberg—he put salad inside the bread, that was the real trick. The bread must be the *döner dürüm*, the proper flatbread wrap, not that thick fluffy loaf they sometimes use now. I know this because I stood by his cart as a boy, watching him roll the warm bread around the meat, grumbling that Berliners would ruin a good thing with too much cabbage. So it's not just invention, but who made it taste like home.
#food
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